The Louvre and the Tuileries

The Tuileries Gardens are always a joy, full of beautiful people and posers, but full too of ordinary life - kids playing with boats. The original gardens were laid out by Catherine de Medici in the 16th century and redesigned in the 17th in the style that became the model for classic French formal gardens. The buildings on the left and right at the entrance are two museums. The Jeu de Paume has modern touring collections while the Orangerie has a fabulous collection of Impressionist art rarely matched elsewhere.

Louvre Pyramid

Venus de Milo

Most visitors to the Louvre stand to marvel or be horrified by the now 20 year old pyramid. It caused a huge row when it was begun but has taken its fitting place in Paris's catalogue of the monumental. The Louvre itself was originally a fortress but has been a museum for two centuries. Like any vast museum, it is better taken in digestible chunks. Pick your preferred bit and enjoy. The familiar will swim into your vision in unfamiliar reality even as you sprint past whatever you have chosen. The Mona Lisa is much smaller than you think, the Venus de Milo less cold.

For a different view of the building’s majesty, wait for dusk and make sure the once royal palace is on the walk back to the hotel and pass through the Cour Carrée. This square renaissance masterpiece is lit with a glow that almost makes the sculpted friezes come alive.

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