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Montmartre

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Montmartre rises out of the flatness of Paris with its myriad of small streets which have been both homes and studios to a preponderance of the west's great 19th and 20th century artists from Degas to Monet and Picasso to Dali.

The métro station is Abbesses and then take the funky little funicular for the final climb to the Basilique Sacré Coeur or walk the steps, stepping over photograph taking tourists. The oriental style church is 80 years old and merits a look outside and in. The peculiar white stone is said to be become whiter in sunlight but Paris pollution has given it a few grey edges. Ignore those who say the inside is gloomy.

Sacré Coeur

Sacré Coeur

Place du Tertre

Place du Tertre

From outside there is a wonderful view, arguably better than from the top of the Tour Eiffel. Paris's two remaining windmills are in Montmartre as is the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dali. It is must for even semi serious fans of his disconcerting art.

Montmartre's new art market centres on Place du Tertre where “starving” unknowns offer paintings for sale. Very few of the artists are starving, they all have to hold a permit to be there, most of the work is junk, and a lot is commercially produced. But suspend cynicism long enough to enjoy a hunt for souvenirs.

If tempted by one of the portrait artists, agree the price before they start - and more importantly watch them at work on someone else first to make sure they know what they’re doing. The Cimetière de Montmartre has the grave of Francois Truffaut, a hint of the area's continuing creative life in the age of cinema.

If you walk towards the Seine from Montmarte go through the Pigalle district. In the evening, be amazed by the seedy glamour of the red light district, walk through Place Pigalle, past the Moulin Rouge and be spoilt for choice from the cornucopia of little restaurants. Legend has it that at least one is run by a priest and used by prostitutes for food and relief of conscience. The Moulin still looks like a Toulouse-Lautrec poster or an advert for the naughty 1890s and yes, the Can Can is still performed.

Montmartre Restaurant

Montmartre Restaurant

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Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysées

Eiffel Tower, Les Invalides and Bois de Boulogne

Ile de la Cité

Latin Quarter and Musée d'Orsay

Montmartre

Opéra Garnier, Haussmann and La Madeleine

Place de la Concorde

The Louvre and the Tuileries

The Marais, Pompidou Centre and Bastille

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